Surfboards are so sexy! They’re (usually) shiny, curvy “magic carpets” that transport us mentally and physically along our paths as surfers. We oogle boards in the racks of a surf shop, devour specs in magazines and peruse used surfboard ads on Craigslist, all in the name of finding “the one!” Certainly, there are “magic boards” out there, boards that just seem to instantly mesh with our surfing dna. You stand up and suddenly you can just go where you want to go on a wave without thinking. Its a rad feeling, but one that is usually fleeting. Every board has a life-span, and sooner or later the “magic” is gone… So with hope, we renew the search for another foam and fiberglass magic carpet, and the cycle continues.
At higher levels of surfing development, a surfer shifts his/her mindset from finding the magic board, to finding the magic in each surfboard. What can this board do? Where can it take me on the wave? How do I adapt my mindset and technique to reveal this board’s potential? Guys like Derek Hynd have been doing this for years, on everything from twin fin fishes to finless foam prototypes, http://blog.swell.com/check-it/derek-hynd-and-his-finless-wonder-board. Eleven time World Champion Kelly Slater is the penultimate example of surfboard design wizardry at the highest level (yes he can even ride a door!).
So take a tip from these masters of surfing, and practice a mindset focused on how surfboard and wave come together, and staying in rhythm with those boundaries. With practice you will heighten your awareness of board, body and wave and that’s where the real “magic” happens.